Thursday, July 28, 2011

Kapuzbaşı Waterfalls

My newest friend, Bora, took Ashley and me to work with him in the morning to have tea all together with his co-workers. A relaxed chat over tea wa sa nice way to start what would end up being a very full day. After talking about the things we might do that way, Bora decided to ask his boss for a day off. It worked. We piled into his car and drove about 100 kilometers to the southern border of Kayseri, near Adana. On the way we stopped at a bird-watchers heaven, though the place is just called "Bird Heaven". There were cranes and eagles along with a nice view of Turkey's 3rd highest mountain, Erciyes, at almost 4,000 meters.

We continued on the long drive, winding through the mountains. Waiting for us in Kapuzbaşı was a mountain with magnificent waterfalls. A spring-fed underground river had carved its way through the limestone and was just gushing out the side of the cliffs. In the local villages, a thunderous gushing sound accompanies the views. Water crisscrosses the dirt roads, running under small bridges. Pipes run every which way, supplying the locals with limitless fresh water. We walked through the icey pools formed in parts of the road. Standing in front of a waterfall provided one with a refreshing blast of cold air and mist. I tested the water resistance of my camera with a few shots.
Standing in front of those waterfalls was like standing in a freezer. There must have been about a 10 degree Celcius drop between the temperature out in the sun and that standing in front of the waterfalls. We felt so refreshed.

In the evening, we drove around the south and east sides of the Erciyes mountain. For dinner, we had mantı at the best mantı restaurant in the city. It was absolutely perfect and quite different from mantı I've had in İstanbul. We also ate warm bastirma. That was undescribably delicious. That was probably one of the best meals I've ever had. Wasn't expensive, either. After dinner, the three of us went for coffee at the house of one of Bora's co-workers. It was such a long and excellent day.

Monday, July 25, 2011

Kayseri

I woke up at 5am on a bus which had just stopped in Kayseri. I resented that the bus was a half hour early because it robbed me of that much more bad and frequently interrupted sleep. In the bus terminal, my friend Ashley and I lay down across the waiting chairs and slept some more. An hour later I got up to use and internet cafe in the bus terminal where I googled Kayseri. I learned a lot about the city, it's geography and the best places to visit. We left the terminal, learned the bus system and rode to the city center.

The city was still waking up as we wandered its streets looking for a place to eat breakfast. We were so hungry, too! Just then a man walking near us asked where we were from. That's when we met Enver, a retired local who happened to be on his way to his favorite breakfast restaurant before killing the rest of the day with friends. He invited us along and we happily accepted. We ate a full Turkish breakfast, accompanied by fresh-from-the-oven bread and some delicious spread that is a speciality of the city. Afte rthe meal, Enver made a list of about 9 places we ought to see in Kayseri. Then he said "let's go".

We walked through old bazaars, modern streets and in the shadow of a fortress built in the 6th century. At one point a local news crew interview me briefly about how I was liking Kayseri. Then they filmed the 3 of us together. I guess we appeared on local tv, which is a funny thought considering I had only just arrived there for the first time. Another highlight of the excursion was when we were visitng Döner Kümbet (the rotating tomb). There were some apricot trees nearby and its fruit was tempting, although too high up to be reached easily. Furthermore, a nearby water sprinkler didn't allow one to stand in a spot near the trees for very long without getting sprayed. Unable to resist the joy of munching on truly fresh apricots, I took my shoes off...
 

I returned slowly from the hieghts of the tree with a shirt pocket full of ripe apricots. We snacked on the apricots after I rinsed them with the water sprinkler, and we stood nearby to allow ourselves to be gently sprayed by its refreshing mist. Those apricots were delicious!

Later on, we met up with a few on Enver's friends inculding a gentleman selling original Kayseri carpets. He showed us many different styles of carpets as we sat in his shop sipping tea between ooh's and aah's. As we excited his shop, we passed through a wool shop. So much wool!
In the evening we went to a hookah cafe near the Erciyes mountain/volcano. At more than 16,000 feet it is stunning. The villages near its base were gorgeous. Flowe-laden stone walls and old houses speckled the fields and lined winding streets. The cafe itself, the most modern looking place for kilometers, felt cosy and natural with pine, plum and mulberry trees providing a lot of shade. We played backgammon and ate pide, passing the time in a fashion so enjoyable and relaxing that it was difficult not to spoil it by talking too much about it.

During our informal albeit vicious backgammon tounament, we were joined by Bora, a Couchsurfer (couchsurfing.com ...I went to the website in the morning at the internet cafe to see if anyone in Kayseri was interested in hosting a couple of strangers for a couple of nights) with whom I'd been texting earlier in the day about a possible stay. Always strange meeting strangers, but it turns out the guy rocks. He joined us for the backgammon tournament and we chatted a bit. Later we went back to his place, enjoying views of Erciyes at sunset on the way. There we passed a chill evening full of Turkish and English conversation.
Then I thought about going to sleep but realized that would be impossible given how much of an awesome day I just had. Glad I wrote it all down.

Sunday, July 24, 2011

I'm at it again

I took a photo of the balloon and Besiktas/Kabatas dock in Kadikoy the night before leaving Istanbul. I'm at it again.
Istanbul is a wonderful city. But it's huge and it's crowded and I needed a break.

I'm in Ankara now and it's been a wonderful couple of days, meeting students and others my age out to enjoy a summer weekend in what is typically referred to as Turkey's most boring major city. Can't say that I'm bored. There's no sea, but there is a swimming pool! Friends and warm weather are all I need for a good time right now.

Speaking of which, I was in the Tunus area of south-easternish Ankara last night, hanging with my friend, my friend's friends and my friend's friends' friends. We had a great time.
 Not sure where all the guys ran off to suddenly.

The locations of the bars we visited were in an area very close to where I conducted a surprise-visit to an old friend, the first time I came to Turkey. Nostalgia would have been an appropriate sentiment, but it seemed too long ago for that.

So what exactly am I at again? I'm headed to the exciting parts of Turkey. It is the 3rd time I have done this and this time my backpack is lighter than ever. This time I have a friend with me and a few scheduled destinations. This time, I know a lot more Turkish and I'm feeling a lot more bold. I'll fill you in as the trip continues.  

Friday, July 8, 2011

Catching up to now

So much has happened since I last wrote, but it was nice to take a break from writing for a while.
 I went to Bulgaria.
I got sick a few times in the last half of the winter. However, it didn't stop me from going out to the bars! Here's me drinking a half liter of water. I had a shot of juice as well.
 Fenerbahçe fans getting ready to celebrate a championship on Bağdat Caddesi. They are mixed up in a big scandal right now and their title might be revoked.
 After an awesome late evening of live street music, I found that I was surrounded by a diverse group. German tourists, my friend Jeremy (who plays a mean accordian and pretty much started the impromptu concert), a crazy guy, and my friend Kerem. That was one of the most unforgettable Monday nights I ever had.

 One nice thing abotu İstanbul is that you don't have to go very far outside the city to enjoy some nature. That particular weekend I hung out with a lot of people who didn't know English and therefore got a lot of Turkish practice.
 My roommate and I like to fix really nice breakfasts. This one we enjoyed on the coffee table because it was so sunny.

Oh yeah. I moved, got a roommate, work ended with the school year and I'm enjoying a short vacation while I figure out what's next.

Last thing. There's a song I listen to every weekend and only on the weekends. It's perfect.
Pinhani - Haftanın Sonu (The End of the Week)